Things with this blog have fallen away I know - I have been sucked in by Twitter and also due to things outside of my control and my other commitments - I have felt it prudent to scale back my blogging. I will still try and blog from time to time but until then I suggest you follow and read (if you don't already the following blogs on the side bar of this blog).
This is more of a word of warning for photographers / stylists out there (and also their agents and production companies). This is worth a read so I have included all of it. For warned is for armed. If you know - make sure your agents are working on your behalf (as it is us ... the little fry in this chain of command who get hurt the most).
xxWW
Stephen Best / APA National CEO March 21, 2009
APA on Omnicom statement..."our policy has not changed"
The last week has seen ever-increasing concern and anger in the advertising community concerning a change in the way the Omnicom Group and its subsidiaries conduct business between Omnicom subsidiaries and suppliers. Advertising Photographers of America (APA) reached out for comment from the Omnicom Group about the crisis. With the Omnicom Group being the world's largest advertising holding company, a change in terms and conditions affects the advertising community on so many levels. The policy of concern is called Sequential Liability. Sequential Liability simply means that the agency only pays the suppliers after it has been paid.
Quoted from The Association of Independent Commercial Producers (AICP) published guidelines dealing with this trend:
"Certain agencies have inserted a Sequential Liability clause in their contracts. Others have added a side letter to be signed by the production company. Still other agency contracts do not overtly refer to Sequential Liability as being in effect, but do refer to the agency "acting as agent for" (the advertiser), which suggests the same thing.
If the agency is requesting the recognitions of a "principal-agent" relationship, then the client (principal) should not be released from the obligation of payment until total payment is made to the production company. It should be clarified that even if the client pays the agency, the client remains liable if the agent defaults in fulfilling the payment obligation.
Sequential Liability means that the agency as agent for its principal, the advertiser, is liable for payment to the production company only if the advertiser has paid the agency; otherwise the advertiser is directly responsible for the payment."
On Thursday, March 20, 2009, at 11:47 AM, APA spoke with Pat Sloan, Omnicom Director of Public Relations, to express the concerns of APA and others to the
opposition of this policy. APA members are not able to finance major advertising projects and these terms and conditions are not acceptable. Director Sloan's statement is that there has been no change to their policy on this matter.
Sequential Liability has been policy in the industry for many years. The reality is that advertising agencies, many are Omnicom's subsidiaries, have provided advances and credit to production companies and photographers to begin awarded projects with substantial expense. "Business as usual" must continue was stated to Director Sloan. APA members, independent photographers and small business owners, are not in a position to finance commercial projects of possibly hundreds of thousands of dollars.
APA business practices have long promoted the inclusion of "statements of intent" to receive 50% to 100% of expenses before the start of a job. It is imperative that this practice continues without removal of advances by clients. Photographers should also include that the photographer owns the copyright and any license agreement must be paid before the release of images.
As creators of intellectual property, photographers hold the copyright on their images. It is imperative that registration of images be immediately submitted to the U.S. Copyright Office. Copyright law and licensing agreements with your clients provide you strong legal protection. APA recommends legal action only as a last resort but registration is needed to recover statutory damages and legal fees.
We must stand together and confront these terms and conditions because they are not in the best interest of photographers and their community of support. If even one accepts them, it will cascade and the role of advertising photographer will change to one of being a financial institution or bank for clients. We must not go down that heavily liable road.
The Omnicom Director of PR did promise to recommend a meeting to discuss these matters. It is APA's hope that a meeting will be arranged and discussions will continue to a successful resolution.
As previously stated, BE CAUTIOUS and don't be afraid to walk away. We must stand together.
Stephen Best
APA National CEO
A lovely thanks to Erica Crompton for her lovely mention of me in her piece in the Mirror! I am not (for those who know this blog well) the most prolific blogger out there but I try to keep things interesting.
Sorry for my absence ..it is a crazy mad press week this week. In the usual instance they are crammed somewhat into two weeks where everyone insists on holding theirs on a Tues - Thurs slot. Due to Easter ... it seems everything is crammed into 1! Is everyone nuts?
Our well heeled Fashion Editor shoes can not make it at the best of time to catch everything and I have a 1 shoot in heavy post production and 2 more in pre-production so when in goodness name I am supposed to pull this off and keep the advertisers happy .. only the heavens know.
Yes well I have been twittering for a while but for some reason .. it never occurred to me to link them. You can find me on WardrobeSlave on Twitter. Look forward to seeing you there!
So it seems that Catherine Ostler is Heading to Tatler. Not too much of a surprise there as she was always in the frame and obviously is going to continue with much of the same. The job swap - she is leaving the ES magazine while Geordie heads over to head up the whole newspaper - is the least likely to make waves. In this climate, no one can afford to rock the boat. Time will tell!
I am back. I got the job and all is very well with the world. No the photographer in question is not my new BFF but he was charming to the subject and wasn't too dismissive of me (which was a relief).
I can't wait for the pictures to come out. Although not useful for my book - for my CV, they should do wonders.
The annoying thing in this line of work is often, the jobs that will never be. It is usual to be optioned for a job (along with several others) and we sit and wait; like the girl waiting at the prom to be asked to dance. This isn't to difficult to handle but every once in a while you have an option come in that is like having George Clooney / Brad Pitt (delete as appropriate) twirl you around the dance floor. One that you want so badly you can taste it.
Those options are career builders (when they come off) - if Brad for example is willing to dance with you .. you would be surprised how many others also suddenly think you are rather desirable (and also those who thought you were crap before suddenly want to be your new BFF). So I am optioned at the moment, with every finger crossed and anything else I can - that I will be the stylist chosen. The option in question has taken a look, approves and now the nail biting starts. Will I get it, won't I?
I am sure that by the end of the week I will be covering the grey.
Sometimes I do wonder about things. For example the title of the last blog - a silly fun play on words. Or so you would think, until I find myself on my couture sitting today. Everyone has been very helpful but every shot taken, every shot covered but we all sit hear waiting, waiting and waiting some more. The Couture house that we are waiting for?
It isn't the PR's fault as I was promised my dress at 5pm, by 6 - nothing. The client before hasn't released it, and now it is 7:30 the dress is finally on its way. This is the way of Couture and to be honest I am bloody lucky not to be shooting through the night. Most of the girls are leaving today / tomorrow to get to NYC for the start of fashion week there mid month.
It has been a crazy few days. A shoot yesterday which went as well as I could have hoped. I am just waiting to hear the verdict. The present shoot is lovely and far, far better than I could have hoped given less than 12 hours ago, I didn't have a studio, clothes, hair + makeup or a girl with a model.com top 20 rating.
Sometimes, although I love this job at times - it can makes me tear my hair out. So here I sit - writing while wasting time (thank god no overtime rates), until the beautiful Gaultier gets here.
Right now however I really could do with a G+T.
*Update - it arrived. It was my first choice and all is forgiven as it is just stunning and worth ever minute of the 2.5 hours late that it was. Viva la Couture!
The final day was quite quiet. Due to the general strike in Paris tomorrow everyone I know is trying to jump ship from Paris before the chaos starts. Now I have to admit - other commitments prevented me from going to the Valentino show but Gaultier was his best by miles - all the signatures of Gaultier, corsets, visible boning .. Kyle in the front row (the scrum to get a picture of her was silly), I might add. Kanye was here again (that boy - Music artist or Fashion floozy?). Innes on the Catwalk - milking it for all it was worth and we were lapping up every moment of it. Elli Saab, was ok but given the strength of many of the other collections - it was all a little to soft and girlie for my tastes.
On the news that Take 2 was closing .. I am hearing rumours (and again Rumours only) that also 1 MNGT in NYC is also going the same way?
Thank you also the lovely Liberty London Girl for a heads up in her blog yesterday. She is one of my favourite bloggers out there and if for some ungodly reason you haven't seen her musings - Go NOW!!!!! Furthermore I let out a delighted squeal this morning, as Make Do Style kindly has given me an Award I didn't deserve (rightly so) … I am listed in her top 10 blogs - no bad as I am not a regular blogger, I am consistently un-consistent.
Well I am off to see if there are any Velib Bikes left and go biking across Paris in the Chaos.
Some times I thank god I am a Stylist and not a writer by trade, because nothing that I can say or type will come close to the Chanel show today. One multi tiered gorgeous frothy regal icing confection of perfection would be the closest I could come and well - that description is a roaring pastiche if I ever said one. However, to say it was breath taking … would be selling it very short. The room, the tables (and yes people were trying to sneak out with the table cloths, the paper cut centre pieces (pathetic … but understandable) and that was before we even had a chance to look at the clothes.
When the time comes to leave fashion and on to pastures new, these are the shows, which I will take with me. From there it was on to Lacroix. Also a regal showing, the technicality was there, the collection wonderful - the catwalk …. Longer than the rue de Rivoli. For 39 looks, one end of the room was clapping while the other half still had 6 looks to see. It was a minor annoyance in a technically brilliant show.
Maison Martin Margella - was an interesting presentation. If only as the only two other people in the room with me were Suzy Menkies and Carine Roitfeld. Talk about being in the shadow of brilliance. I have to say it was a moment of pure Couture heaven. If only I could have dipped into either of their brains (aka Being John M) for a moment.
Givenchy was a bit of a let down but on top of a cracking day … who has room for critics?
Well I guess me…
More Gareth. So LVMH is looking to buy him … so reports Vogue.com. However he was at Chanel as well today so I would imagine he is courting buyers, seeing to be seen or at least trying to get someone to invest in him, as the poor love has no money. Investment isn't easy to come by especially right now. Can't see him taking over Dior Homme but stranger things have happened…..
You see, sometimes in tough times - the big boys look to the past and say: "What happened when the economy went belly up last time?" Besides our loyal clients, who else spends money on Couture? Brides of course! Not everyone can be a year in, year out Couture client but there are still many very rich elite women in this world, which will spend money (no matter how bad the economy) on that dress of a lifetime. No surprise then, that there was more than a spattering of off-white confections to grace the catwalk at Dior today.
This in no way detracted from the wonderful presentation, which I thought, was spot on. Great use of colour, hand painted silks and yummy embroidery and bead-work. The silhouettes were old school glamour, with the odd nod to the up-coming Oscars. Dior is always a house where Couture still reigns supreme and John, as ever is the master of ceremonies. However, one could not help noticing that the Master has been lax at the gym or eating one to many pies as he is looking a tad round at the moment.
Sergio Rossi Puma launch was interesting over at Collette if you are a fan of Satin trainers (both the flat and heeled varieties in a selection of strong bold colours). Fun, but given the London weather, perhaps not practical. I am not a fan of suede or satin as they tend to get trashed in one outing, however that won't stop me from shooting them as soon as I can.
As for Armani, well I would rather just skip that. What did come to my attention was a press release that went out that announced the closing of Take 2 models. Gabriella was to London modelling - well, like Sarah Dukas, or Carol White. So although I know things are tight …well I was not so much shocked but saddened by the news. I hope this isn't a sign of further closures to come.
I try not to be a cynic. Hard it must be said in this environment. However, Gareth's show was as predicted a bit of a scrum, full of the Pony step club kids, fashion stylists, editors and general hangers. Did I see anything new? Unfortunately not. It was his first menswear show, and predictably he sent out more of the same, Goth boy dressing. However, in a very hard financial climate one has to ponder how much of a market there is for very rich, anorexic skinny Goth boys/men to dress? Men are not usually the most adventurous with their attire so besides the piles of editorial that he will get .. I can't see much else. I don't believe Gareth is bankrolled to the point where he has a very commercial watered down commercial collection waiting in the wings (I could be very wrong, we shall see). So to concur with Make Do Style - Mad boy indeed, if there was a time to try and develop your ideas and move forward, the time would have been now.
The highlights of today - Dior and one could argue Armani Privee (the later being a bit of a stretch). I have already been asked by a few to judge the general mood. Is it as sombre as everywhere else or is there a fashion buzz on? I suspect it will not be a "grand" couture, a more paired back demure season to reflect the times. It is not the time to be flaunting excessive wealth (for those fleeting Couture clients - I suspect they have in many ways been hit more than most - as a percentage of overall income).
Anyway … more to follow.
A long absence I know but it seems that my professional life is difficult to blog about. Given the nature of shoots, one has to be very careful of what one says. Frequently, you can't discuss things - less a competitor knick and idea, shoot a model and pip you at the post - so a blog can be a bit of a pitfall. Furthermore, you don't want to land your publication in the merde (and yourself with it). So it seems, I leave you for months on end and only blog from the safe haven of the shows. Or perhaps - I just don't have anything that interesting to say…. take it as you will.
Now I find myself back in Paris, to attend the holiest of holy, the Haute Couture, which will commence on Monday. With the tough economic times however, drastic measures have to be taken and I was dispatched to Paris early…. Something about Saturday night stays and cheaper tickets (false economy given that an extra night in a hotel is required - however due to concern to my personal wellbeing… I opted not to point this fact out). Everyone seems so techy at the moment. So I arrived a full day and a half early to enjoy the sights, sounds (and Sales) of Paris.
I miss Editor X, as she was a ray of sunshine, which made this circus far more tolerable. She will be back no doubt and not a moment too soon. Unfortunately my colleague, USC has to get back to the office so I have been generously gifted a healthy allocation to the menswear shows. Something that in all of my years, I have never darkened the doorstep of. So I guess you could say I am popping my Menswear cherry, and with Hermes no less. Well if a girl is going to do it…..
The show was clean, classic (with twists of Yellow and Red) and rather tasty. However, if you want a review … go and read Suzy, she would put it far more eloquently than I. Over all however, loved the casting especially. Surprising as I usually find male models of the post millennium all to fey for my tastes. Bring back the muscle bound beef cake men of the early 90's.
I also have a coveted invitation to Gareth Pugh's debut menswear collection tomorrow night but Hermes wins over Gareth for line honours. Just call me an old fashioned. It will be a scene tomorrow. Coupling the fence between closing the Menswear shows and the opening of Couture the following morning, it is guaranteed to be a scrum of silly proportions. Everyone vying for the honour of the coveted " well I was there when Gareth showed his first ….." Is a star to be born? Some would argue he is already. A showman he might be, but a strong designer with longevity in his label has yet to be decided. Perhaps come back in 10 years and with can discuss it further.
Yes, Yes, Yes. Paris is a wash with the news that Katie Grand has resigned from Pop to set up a bi-annual for Conde Nast. Everyone is saying that Alex better just watch out and pull up her socks but to me people just want to gossip. Katie is / and has always been a bit of a Maverick. Giving her a new launch bi-annual with the feeling of a creative Visionaire format, is a strong move by CN's. However - it is far different to edit a Bi-Annual than it is a monthly. Also it will remain to be seen if she can operate within the CN framework. I just can’t see her wanting the helm of British Vogue anytime soon. It could be argued that Pop has had more cache in the UK than UK Vogue for a long time. The commercialism of Vogue is just not her style.
Yes, she has a strong background in great magazines - she is also fiercely independent and will only do what she wants to do. It works here, for both of there favours - she gets to put her stamp on something twice a year. Thus freeing her up to roll the money in with her consultancies and CN gains by bringing to the Stable the only Stylist / Editor whom they have never really gotten their mitts on.
It is always difficult - remember when she was Fashion Director of Harpers Bazaar US not all that long ago? As much as everyone lauds these new bedfellows - and I don't want to throw water on a very interesting flame but it will remain to see how well these two will make for business partners. I don't doubt the magazine will be a success but I do not see plain sailing ahead.
Ok Ok - sorry sorry sorry. At the prompting of the Stiletto Effect, I am back - sometimes even us Anobloggers need a kick up the bottom. I was in NYC for the shows, then working my tail off during London and now I find myself in Paris, in fact off to the opening of the new Bulgari Shop on George V.
It has been a very strange set of shows so far this week. The heels are scraping the ceiling but the economy has clearly realised that they can't keep trying to foist the Emperors new Clothes on us. The shows are definitely, creatively shortchanged besides the noble few (Nina Ricci and Balenciaga this morning) but the rest are battening the hatches for the hurricane on the horizon, which will likely batter the Luxury sector. Even John (who it could be argued spotted the trend early) showed a very paired down Tribal inspired commercial collection at Dior.
However it seems the jewellery houses are doing well - people are buying gems as investment alternatives, to the usual way of hiding ones worth. With Gold still close to a record high - if you had to walk away with your wealth - high jewellery is one way to do it easily.
Ok - sorry about the delay but work does come first! As I said in the previous post I was knee deep in Graduate Fashion Week, and I promised to give you a few names to keep and eye on. Now for once me and the Judging panel were in similar agreement with the overall winners from the colleges but some didn't make it to the final gala that I felt should have.
First and Foremost Ria Thomas, she won the Pringle of Scotland Knitwear award. I saw her Nottingham Trent show earlier and the week and thought she was something special - I expect we will see her on the LFW sched very soon. She definitely impressed me the most. The overall womenaswear award went to Nabil El Nayal who presented a very grown up, geometrical collection and the award was well deserved. The overall winner went to the menswear designer Jessica Au, with her Kenzo floral print menswear. Personally it didn't really rock my style boat but you can see she is a very strong talent. However what was a surprise to me was that the delightful Paul Smith/Techno/Public School boys collection by Krishna Chavda didn't make the judges cut. Personally I really enjoyed the presentation and I though it was fun without being showy, however its classic lines with a twist I guess didn't impress others in the same way.
Good luck class of 08 - in the changing market you are going to need all the help and support you can get.
xx
WS
Yes I have been having one of those weeks - it was all rather 'Too" Fashion. I am prepping for a shoot, which is making things crazy - but to top that all off, it was the much publicized launch of Chanel at Dover Street Market last night (for those rubber neckers: Spotted, Agnes, Henry Holland, Katie Grand, Sarah Bailey, Bronwyn Cosgrave, well lets face it the fucking who's who of London fashion). I stayed for only a fashion moment before heading off to the Matches Circus evening and even covered an Art Exhibition (Grayson Perry, Peter Blake etc) - so I was plum tuckered to say the least.
No let up today, as the Gala Evening for Graduate Fashion week was on. I will say a big kudos to River Island as sponsor of the event. It is covered brilliantly and they have big plans to take it forward. It is also helpful to see everyone in the same place - it is rather like the Fashion week tents but all new, raw talent. Yes, there are some weaker students and you have to sit through things that might be your cup of tea (or are genuinely crap) however that is what a good editor does - EDIT.
There is a good deal of support for the event, the usual suspects BFC, but also it is sponsored by NatMags (the UK outfit of the Heart Corp). Sadly several of the Journo's who would usually turn out stayed away to go to the Royal College Gala tomorrow night but Extra Kudos to the Evening Standard crew, who were being well on top of it (which can't be said for certain other publications).
Anyway - if I weren't propping my eyes open I would give you the Grads to keep and eye on but I will save that for the next blog as Cinderella needs her sleep.
So I had some time to kill between appointments and tottered on down to the lovely Notting Hill exchange. Bagged myself an out of season Mulberry boating blazer for a £5 which is a bargain in anyone's book. It will go great with a wife beater and jeans and perfect at that price.
However, while slipping into the changing room the interns/fashion assistants saunter in from Wonderland flogging the castoffs from the fashion closet and desperately trying to put food on the table. Now we were all there once, I remember returning the M&S press gifts (back in the day they were worth £50) and could feed you from M&S food for a whole month if you were careful. However, words to the wise to the younger generation. Yes we all know you get paid pittance. We were there once too. Do not however show up at the local vintage/pawnshop with samples in a designer carrier bag that is clearly marked to the attention of the Fashion director of the MAGAZINE!!!!! It is so so not form - and if you aren't careful, people have been fired for less as you never know who is watching!
I can't quite believe it. I am actually reeling from the news. I guess it doesn't help when I am right in the middle of the The Beautiful Fall by Alicia Drake. He was only 71. A mere 5 years older than my parents. I know he had retired, I know - he must have known that it was coming. It doesn't make it any easier.
Here is the news on the AFP - For me I will remember him for all of my mother's lovely handmedowns, my silk black peasant top, my red autumn pie crust blouse, and last but not least my favourite black croc slingbacks.
R.I.P. Y.S.L.
Every year it starts earlier and earlier. Today the first in line at the coveted invitation only, Chanel Sample Sale were in line at 6am apparently. Usually there are not too many bags on offer so you have to be at the front if you want pick of the litter.
I luckily, am not the biggest Chanel bag fan (gasp, horror) but I do go for the clothes in a big way (long with the rest of us). I passed over the Relative PR sale last night (I am never going to be a true sample size and thought, "Do I really want any more shoes?") and my saved my bank account for the workout this morning.
The great and the good were all there in spades, from Editors down to fashion assistants (no interns). I came away with a great cocktail dress, a day dress to die for, a cute knit piece and a skirt. All items that are good additions to my already packed wardrobe. I have in the past suffered buyers frenzy at this sale, and come away with items that, to be honest even I wonder what I was thinking at the time.
Furthermore this sample sale, opposed to others has past sale merchandise so women other than the wafer thin, get a look in. I am pleased as punch with my purchases, but with that and the McQueen dress last month - I have over splurged. It is a fashion diet from here on in this season.
xoxoWS
